ÁO DÀI and NÓN LÁ: Icons of Vietnamese Elegance and Tradition

The ÁO DÀI, a long and flowing dress, and the non la, the iconic conical hat, together embody the soul of Vietnam. These two elements of the traditional Vietnamese costume symbolize elegance, femininity, and national identity. Worn on special occasions or in daily life, they fascinate with their history, diversity, and rich symbolism.

ÁO DÀI: History, Evolution, and Meanings

Origins and History

The ÁO DÀI finds its origins in the 18th century, under the reign of King Nguyen Phuc Khoat, who imposed a distinctive outfit on the Southern court (located in Phu Xuân, present-day Hué) inspired by Chinese and Cham costumes. At that time, the garment called ao ngu than (five-panel dress) symbolized Confucian virtues and was worn loose, with a belt.

Under French influence in the 1930s, the ao dai became slimmer: the cut became more fitted and elegant, with the introduction of Western fabrics. The designer Cat Tuong (Le Mur) modernized the silhouette, heralding the contemporary era.

In the 1950s in Saigon, the raglan style appeared, characterized by a seam running from the neckline to the armpits, refining the silhouette and accentuating femininity. This side-slit version is now the standard.

North/South Differences

In the 18th century, Vietnam was divided:

• South (Nguyen, court in Hué/Phu Xuân): Cultural openness, Cham and Chinese influences, evolving and colorful costumes, birth of the modern ao dai.

• North (Trinh, court in Hanoi/Thang Long): Confucian tradition, centralized administration, more sober and conservative costumes.

Materials and Manufacture

The ao dai consists of a long tunic, slit on the sides, worn over wide trousers. Materials vary: natural silk (valued for its lightness and sheen), cotton, polyester, or brocade depending on use and budget.

Origins and History of the Ao Dai

The Era of King Nguyen Phuc Khoat (18th Century)

The ÁO DÀI has its roots under the reign of King Nguyen Phuc Khoat, who imposed a distinctive outfit on the Southern court of Vietnam. At that time, the garment was influenced by traditional Chinese and Cham costumes.

The ao ngu than (five-panel dress)

This ancient version had five panels of fabric, symbolizing the five Confucian virtues, and was worn with a belt. The ao ngu than was loose, covering the body, and often worn with wide trousers.

French Influence and Modernization (1930s)

Under French colonial influence, the ao dai became slimmer: the cut became more fitted, the length increased, and Western fabrics like imported silk were adopted. Designers modernized the silhouette, making it more elegant and feminine.

The Raglan ÁO DÀI (1950s in Saigon)

In the 1950s, designer Tran Kim introduced the raglan seam, running from the neckline to the armpits, refining the silhouette and accentuating femininity. This version, slit on the sides up to the waist, became the contemporary standard.

The Contemporary Ao Dai

Today, the ao dai comes in a multitude of styles: long or short sleeves, embroidery, hand-painted patterns, luxurious or modern fabrics. It is worn at weddings, national holidays, school ceremonies, and official events.

Where was the Southern court under Nguyen Phuc Khoat?

The Southern court, led by the Nguyen lords, was located in Phu Xuân, now the city of Hué. Phu Xuân became the political and cultural center of the South from the late 17th century, then the imperial capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802.

Under Nguyen Phuc Khoat (reigned 1738 to 1765), the Southern court exercised authority over the entire southern part of Vietnam, continuing expansion toward the Mekong Delta and consolidating its power against the Trinh in the North.

How was the situation in the North at the same time?

In the 18th century, the country was divided between the North, controlled by the Trinh lords, and the South, by the Nguyen. The Northern court (Trinh) was seated in Thang Long (now Hanoi). The Trinh held real power, while the emperor of the Lê dynasty had only a symbolic role.

The North was more marked by Confucian influence and traditions inherited from China, with more sober costumes and a centralized administration around the Red River plain.

Differences between North and South

• Political power: The South (Nguyen) developed an autonomous court in Hué/Phu Xuân, while the North (Trinh) kept the court in Hanoi/Thang Long, with a symbolic Lê emperor.

• Costumes: Southern costumes evolved faster, integrating Cham and Chinese influences, heralding the modern ao dai. The North remained more conservative in its clothing and rituals.

• Culture: The South was more open to external influences (Cham, Khmer, then Western), while the North remained more attached to Confucian tradition and strict social hierarchy.

Summary

The Southern court was located in Phu Xuân (Hué), while the North was centered on Hanoi/Thang Long. The South, under the Nguyen, saw the birth of the modern ao dai, while the North, under the Trinh, remained more faithful to ancient traditions. Costumes, culture, and openness to external influences were therefore noticeably different between the two regions.

The ao dai and the non la form an inseparable duo of Vietnamese identity. Their history, diversity of forms and colors, and deep symbolism testify to a living heritage, passed down from generation to generation. Wearing the ao dai and the non la is to embody the grace, pride, and poetry of Vietnam, whether at a festival, a wedding, or simply in daily life.

Meaning of Colors

• White: Symbol of purity and innocence, traditionally worn by young girls, especially high school students.

• Red: Color of happiness and luck, favored for weddings, Tet (Lunar New Year), and major celebrations.

• Blue: Associated with youth, peace, and serenity. Shades vary according to age or status.

• Yellow/Gold: Formerly reserved for royalty, symbolizes prosperity and nobility. Today, worn at important ceremonies.

• Purple: Color of fidelity and romance, often worn by married women or at poetic events.

• Black: Traditionally worn by elderly women or during mourning, evokes discretion and wisdom.

Note on Mourning: Details

• White: The main color of mourning in Vietnamese culture, symbolizing purity, respect, and renunciation. At funerals, close relatives often wear a white ao dai (or simple white outfit), sometimes with a white headband.

• Other colors associated with mourning: Light gray or beige may also be tolerated for more distant relatives.

• Black, though more common in Western traditions, is not traditionally Vietnamese for mourning, but can be worn today, especially in big cities or at ceremonies influenced by the West.

The Vietnamese funeral ritual often depends on the age of the deceased, the region, and the family's level of modernity or tradition. But to remain true to Vietnamese tradition, white remains the symbolic and respectful choice for a mourning ao dai.

• Pastel colors: Worn by young women or at spring events, symbolizing softness and freshness.

Prices and Varieties

The price varies according to the material, the complexity of the design, and the tailor's expertise. A simple model in synthetic fabric costs little, while a custom embroidered silk piece can reach several million VND. Designer or ceremonial creations are the most expensive.

THE NÓN LÁ: The Craft of the Conical Hat

Origins and Symbolism

The non la, a conical hat made of woven leaves, has existed for nearly 3,000 years according to legends and archaeological discoveries. It symbolizes protection, fertility, and Vietnamese rural tradition. It is worn both during agricultural work and at ceremonies or with the ao dai.

Manufacture and Materials

The non la is entirely handmade from plant materials: latanier, palm, pineapple, or coconut leaves, woven on a bamboo frame. Its making requires about ten steps and several hours of work, making it an authentic and eco-friendly craft product.

Varieties and Prices

There are several regional variants, such as the nón bài thơ from Hué, decorated with poems or patterns visible in the light. Simple models are very affordable, while artisanal or decorated versions can be more expensive.

The non la, the iconic conical hat, is the inseparable accessory of the ao dai. A symbol of rural life and Vietnamese femininity, it protects from sun and rain while embodying tradition.

Origins and History

The non la has existed for nearly 3,000 years, according to legends and archaeological discoveries. It appears in many myths, including that of a protective goddess who taught the Vietnamese to grow rice while sheltering them under her immense hat.

Once worn by both men and women, it is now mainly feminine.

Use and Symbolism

Traditionally, the NÓN LÁ protects from the elements and sometimes serves as a container or fan. It is worn during agricultural work, ceremonies, or as a fashion accessory with the ao dai. There are several regional variants, some adorned with poems or woven patterns, like the famous nón bài thơ from Hué.

Prices and Varieties

The price of a NÓN LÁ depends on the quality of the leaves, the time taken to make it, and the fineness of the weaving. Simple models are very affordable, while decorated or collector's hats can be more expensive. Specialized villages perpetuate this craft throughout the country.

The non la, more than just a hat, is a symbol of Vietnamese culture. Practical, aesthetic, and steeped in legend, it accompanies the ao dai to form Vietnam's iconic duo. Its artisanal heritage continues through generations, combining utility and poetry.

FAQ

• Since when has the non la existed?
  It is mentioned in legends and archaeological discoveries dating back nearly 3,000 years.

• What is the non la made of?
  Mainly latanier, palm, or pineapple leaves, woven on a bamboo frame.

• How much does a non la cost?
  Simple models are very affordable, while decorated or artisanal versions can be more expensive, depending on the work involved.

• Are there different kinds of non la?
  Yes, each region has its variants, such as the nón bài thơ of Hué, which reveals poems or patterns in the light.

• Does the non la have a particular meaning?
  It symbolizes protection, fertility, tradition, and Vietnamese femininity.

• Since when does the ao dai exist?
  The modern ao dai finds its roots in the 18th century, but its primitive forms are older, influenced by China and the Chams.

• Where was the Southern court?
  The Southern court was located in Phu Xuân, now the city of Hué, the political and cultural center of the Nguyen.

• What were the costumes like in the North?
  The North, under the Trinh, favored more sober and conservative costumes, in keeping with Confucian tradition.

• What is the ao dai made of?
  Mainly silk, but also cotton, polyester, or brocade depending on the budget.

• How much does an ao dai cost?
  From a few hundred thousand to several million VND depending on the material, cut, and customization.

• Are there more expensive ao dai?
  Yes, custom, embroidered, or designer models are much more expensive.

• Do colors have meaning?
  Yes, each color carries symbolism related to age, status, or occasion.

Today, without ever losing its tradition, Vietnam is a major player in global fashion

Vietnam is now a major player in the world of fashion, recognized for the quality of its textile production and the diversity of its clothing.

From flowing skirts to fitted jackets, lace blouses to striped or printed t-shirts, the country manufactures a wide range of outfits for women and men, catering to all trends: casual, chic, relaxed, sportswear, or streetwear.

Materials and Cuts: Innovation Serving Comfort

Clothes made in Vietnam use a variety of natural and technical materials:

• Linen: valued for its lightness and freshness, perfect for blouses, shirts, and summer trousers.

• Cotton: essential for t-shirts, jeans, checked or polka-dot shirts, and knit sweaters.

• Lace and embroidery: very present on skirts, blouses, ruffled dresses, or strappy tops for a feminine and refined style.

• Velvet: used for elegant winter sweaters or jackets.

• Technical fabrics: for sportswear, sneakers, printed t-shirts, and slim or high-waisted jeans.

Cuts are varied: slim, flowing, oversized, high-waisted or sleeveless, with prints (polka dots, stripes, checks) or trendy colors like khaki, beige, or navy blue. Casual clothes, such as t-shirts, jeans, sneakers, and knit sweaters, are especially popular for building a modern and comfortable wardrobe.

Leading Vietnamese Clothing Brands

• Viet Tien: Founded in 1975, it is the country's most renowned men's fashion brand, with more than 1,300 outlets. It offers shirts, trousers, jackets, jeans, and high-quality casual wear, suitable for all body types and styles. Viet Tien is ranked 3rd among the largest fashion brands in Southeast Asia.

• Yody: Specializing in casual fashion for women and men, Yody focuses on innovative and sustainable fabrics (like S’Cafe made from recycled coffee). It offers t-shirts, polos, jeans, blouses, jackets, skirts, and sneakers, with a strong national presence and international expansion.

• Eva De Eva: A very popular women's brand, known for its skirts, jackets, dresses, blouses, and modern outfits, often in linen, lace, or knit, with elegant cuts and trendy prints.

• Coco Sin: Famous for its women's clothing, embroidered blouses, ruffled skirts, strappy tops, and flowing trousers, perfect for an urban and chic wardrobe.

• Metiseko: Specializing in ethical clothing in organic cotton and natural silk, Metiseko offers collections for women and men, combining Vietnamese tradition and modern cuts.

International Brands Produced in Vietnam

Many major international brands have their collections made in Vietnam, benefiting from local expertise and high standards in quality and sustainability:

• Uniqlo

• H&M

• Nike

• Levi’s

• Adidas

• Pull&Bear

• Massimo Dutti

• Chanel (for certain lines)

These brands offer a wide range of clothing: t-shirts, blouses, jeans, sneakers, jackets, sweaters, casual or dressy clothes, suitable for all styles and all seasons.

The Vietnamese Textile Industry: Innovation, Quality, and Sustainability

The textile and garment sector in Vietnam is undergoing rapid transformation, focusing on digital transformation, the circular economy, and environmental sustainability. Manufacturers invest in recycled materials, organic cotton, eco-friendly dyeing processes, and ethical working conditions, meeting the requirements of major global brands and environmentally conscious consumers.

Conclusion

Vietnam has established itself as a key reference for modern fashion, combining creativity, quality, and responsibility. Whether you are looking for a ruffled skirt, a checked shirt, a printed t-shirt, slim jeans, or a knit sweater, you will find in Vietnam clothes for every desire and style, signed by the biggest local or international brands.

FAQ – Modern Clothing Made in Vietnam

• What types of clothing are made in Vietnam?
  Skirts, jackets, blouses, jeans, t-shirts, sweaters, sneakers, dresses, trousers, blouses, strappy, embroidered, printed, striped or polka-dot garments, in linen, cotton, knit, velvet, etc.

• What are the main Vietnamese brands?
  Viet Tien, Yody, Eva De Eva, Coco Sin, Metiseko, Ren Boutique.

• Which major international brands produce in Vietnam?
  Uniqlo, H&M, Nike, Levi’s, Adidas, Pull&Bear, Massimo Dutti, Chanel, among others.

• Does Vietnam produce sustainable clothing?
  Yes, the industry is moving toward eco-friendly materials (organic cotton, recycled fabrics) and responsible practices (circular economy, international certifications).

• Where to buy clothes made in Vietnam?
  In local brand stores, shopping malls, markets, or online on the official websites of brands and international platforms.

What Are the Must-Have Women’s Apparel Pieces for a Stylish and Comfortable Wardrobe in 2025?

From cozy cardigans to flowy chiffon blouses, today’s women's apparel blends comfort, versatility, and flattering cuts. Whether you're dressing up for a night out or keeping it casual at home, there’s a perfect fit for every mood and season. But what should every wardrobe include in 2025?

Let’s explore the essentials that combine style and functionality—with just the right touch of texture, print, and silhouette.

Tops & Tees: It Starts with the Sleeve

Whether you're layering or going solo, sleeves make a statement. A long-sleeve tee is perfect for cooler days, while short-sleeve tees and V-neck blouses keep things breezy. Love variety? Try a scoop-neck pullover, an off-the-shoulder top, or a blazer layered over a denim shirt for instant edge.

Skirts, Shorts & Leggings: From Pleated to Flared

Balance comfort and chic with pleated maxi skirts, plaid mini skirts, and lightweight shorts for warmer days. Don’t forget high-stretch leggings—perfect with oversized tees or a drape cardigan. For a softer touch, go for a crepe finish or rayon fabric that moves with you.

Dresses & Outerwear: Drape, Flare & Flow

A floral-print chiffon dress or textured maxi is your go-to for effortless elegance. In transitional weather, coats and blazers with a subtle flare shape create a more flattering silhouette. Add a lace-up detail or ruffle trim for extra flair.

Footwear & Finishing Touches

Pair it all with sleek ankle sandals in ivory or neutral tones for timeless appeal. For laid-back days, slip into denim shorts, a cropped tee, and your favorite cardigan—the perfect combo of chill and chic.

In Summary:

To wear these essentials is to embrace both comfort and confidence. Build your capsule wardrobe with must-have apparel: from the classic blouse to the modern off-the-shoulder top, from chiffon textures to plaid accents, and everything in between. Every sleeve, stripe, or flare tells a story—make sure it’s yours.

Today, watching Vietnamese women in the street is like witnessing a daily fashion show full of elegance and diversity